Had an iPhone 11 Pro Max come in for no power. Device was in excellent condition, no cracks, no signs of impact. Customer said it just randomly died.
Honestly, this is one of those classic faults I used to see all the time, and still enjoy because of how straightforward it is once you know what to look for.
First step, as always with no power, was checking current draw on the DC power supply.
Boot behavior:
Current was jumping all over the place. It would bounce from 0 → ~500mA → 0 → a few mA → back up again. Just constantly pulsing with no stable draw.
That kind of behavior usually points to a short on a NAND cap
So I threw it under the thermal cam (Seek Compact Pro). Timing is key here, because you only see heat when current is actually being drawn. When it drops to zero, there’s no heat signature.
Caught it at the right moment and found a hotspot on the board.
Under the microscope, the area showed a slightly darkened cap under the underfill, classic sign.
Ended up being a shorted PP3V0 cap on the NAND rail.
Important note:
This type of short does NOT damage the NAND. It just prevents it from receiving power, so the phone won’t boot.
Fix:
Removed the shorted capacitor.
No replacement needed here. Since this cap has one side to ground on a power rail, the phone runs perfectly fine without it.
Reassembled, tested, and the phone is now fully functional.
I’ve done a ton of these over the years. One thing I still see way too often is newer techs replacing caps unnecessarily. That’s usually a giveaway they don’t have much experience with board-level power rail diagnostics.
Attached photos:
- Thermal cam hotspot (timed during current spike)
- Cap before removal
- After removal
- Device fully working again
Curious how often you guys are seeing NAND rail cap shorts on these?
Also:
- Do you rely more on thermal cam or freeze spray for finding intermittent shorts?
- What’s your go-to method when current is pulsing like this?
- Anyone seeing similar behavior on newer models (13/14/15 series)?
Let’s hear it 👇
If you have a Seek Thermal Cam, you're missing out if you don't have a VCC Seek Stand: https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/buy-seek-stand
Injured Gadgets just got these back in stock, so get them while you can!
It can take us a while to build these out sometimes, so they're sometimes out of stock for a while, but we're working towards always having inventory ready to build more as they sell out.
This stand makes using a thermal cam so easy. So much better than any other thermal solution on the market.
It allows you to get real close up (using my Macro Lens), and easily find where the short is coming from.
Plus it's hard free, so you can have your hands free to try to boot the device from DCPS, while having an image that is in focus & not moving around.
You can even record a video through the app, while you inject voltage into the short, so you can go back & see exactly which component was it that was heating up.
Save yourself lots of time by getting a Seek Cam, Stand & Macro Lens! ...
Anyone who is doing game console repairs, knows how many screws you need to remove to access the motherboard.
Especially the PS5, with the 5,000 screws or so.
If you don't already have an electric screwdriver, GET ONE ASAP.
🌟 Cordless Screwdriver with T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3E5duCj
🌟Extended T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3c4YJac
It's rechargeable through micro USB and allows you to easily swap the tips out. You can also fold it to be straight or L shape.
Let me know below if you are already using an electric screwdriver 👇👇
This one came in as a no power data recovery job. Customer said it died overnight, no prior damage, and Apple told them the board was done and data wasn’t recoverable.
Physically, the phone looks clean. No bends, no cracks, nothing obvious. I’m honestly not sure how the board ended up cracked, there’s no visible external damage that would typically cause this.
Here’s what I found 👇
Initial testing:
- Able to boot with minimal setup (board + screen + battery + charge port)
- Stuck at 5V, very low current draw (not charging)
- No touch response
- Boot current draw looked normal
Direction I took:
- Focused on the touch issue first (since no touch = no data access)
- Using an LCD aftermarket screen:
- Got image
- Still no touch
- OEM/OLED behavior pointed toward a board-level display/touch issue
What I found:
- While removing the shield over the display IC… found a board crack
- Several display connector pins reading OL (open line)
- Traces route from connector → PMIC / display IC ...
This is an iPad 10 that came in for No Image/No Backlight.
Within seconds of removing the shield, I saw the problem.
Can you? I'll post the close up shot later today in the comments 👀
I’m thinking about adding another perk for the paid members here in the community: private repair livestreams where we work through repairs and troubleshooting together.
The idea would be to do members-only livestreams where I could:
• Work on real board-level repairs live
• Walk through my troubleshooting process
• Interpret panic logs together
• Answer repair questions from members
• Talk through CPU swaps, tools, and techniques
• Explain why certain failures happen
It would basically be a more interactive way to learn, where you could ask questions while the repair is happening.
Before I start scheduling these, I want to gauge interest.
If you are a free follower:
👍 Please like this post if livestreams like this would interest you.
If you are a paid member:
💬 Please comment below if you'd like to see this and how often you'd want them (weekly, monthly, etc.).
If enough people are interested, I’ll start planning the first livestream. 🔧📱
