I am pretty sure, I spent about 16 hours combined working on this Samsung S21 Plus.
It came to me for Data Recovery.
It started bootlooping out of nowhere & customer needed all their pics & vids.
I went through my normal BDS workflow to solve the common bootlooping problem, but this one was different. Nothing I did changed the behavior.
UFS reballed, no change
UFS health was checked and was good, so we proceed to work on it
Then did RAM reball, but no change.
Then CPU & RAM Reball (they're stacked on top of each other) and same results.
At this point, customer approved a CPU Swap and oh boy, was that fun.
First step was to do the full CPU/RAM/UFS swap onto my working donor to see if it boots and it was no power. After some troubleshooting & replacing RAM, it finally booted...
Turns out, this phone had no pin code, but because Samsung started pairing a small IC to the phone (staring on S21 series), so it needed the "pin code IC" to be swapped as well.
The problem is that the pin code IC is inside the sandwich, so I figured i'd to the swap to see if i can get it boot first, then deal with the sandwich issues/pin code IC.
So even though this phone has no pin code, it will still not let me access the user data. It was forever in the "The phone is starting...." screen & nothing would load.
I can browse the settings, but couldn't really do much. None of the menu options were opening.
So this tells me, the pin code IC is needed, even if the phone has no pin code.
That's when I proceeded to split the sandwich on both boards, so I could transplant the small pin code IC
But that's when I ran into a problem...
After much troubleshooting, I got it booting and user data finally loaded! But it was restarting & overheating. I tried different methods to cool it but it would not change anything.
I reballed the sandwich again & it stopped over heating, but still restarting.
Tried reballing CPU, RAM, UFS, pin code IC and sandwich, but same results.
Finally, I decided to try another donor board..
And that did it! It finally booted up and stayed on fine. It didn't overheat either.
Looking back to all the steps I took, I definitely learned a lot. I also feel that maybe i could have resolved this in the beginning with just a new RAM chip.
I recently had another S21 that was no power & detected in "QDLoader mode" that ended up just being a bad RAM chip.
So although I spent a ton of time on this one, I have learned from this whole experience & I'm confident I'll be able to quickly solve future Android data jobs, thanks to the time I invested in this one.
So if you need your data recovered, send me a PM for a quote. B2B discounted pricing is available 🔥
If you have a Seek Thermal Cam, you're missing out if you don't have a VCC Seek Stand: https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/buy-seek-stand
Injured Gadgets just got these back in stock, so get them while you can!
It can take us a while to build these out sometimes, so they're sometimes out of stock for a while, but we're working towards always having inventory ready to build more as they sell out.
This stand makes using a thermal cam so easy. So much better than any other thermal solution on the market.
It allows you to get real close up (using my Macro Lens), and easily find where the short is coming from.
Plus it's hard free, so you can have your hands free to try to boot the device from DCPS, while having an image that is in focus & not moving around.
You can even record a video through the app, while you inject voltage into the short, so you can go back & see exactly which component was it that was heating up.
Save yourself lots of time by getting a Seek Cam, Stand & Macro Lens! ...
Anyone who is doing game console repairs, knows how many screws you need to remove to access the motherboard.
Especially the PS5, with the 5,000 screws or so.
If you don't already have an electric screwdriver, GET ONE ASAP.
🌟 Cordless Screwdriver with T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3E5duCj
🌟Extended T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3c4YJac
It's rechargeable through micro USB and allows you to easily swap the tips out. You can also fold it to be straight or L shape.
Let me know below if you are already using an electric screwdriver 👇👇
This iPad Pro 11-inch had already been worked on, but the real problem wasn’t the port.
Using a USB-C PD meter and Mechanic USB-C tester, I was able to confirm abnormal charging behavior and trace the issue deeper into the board. The fault ended up being a failed CD3215C00 charging controller IC and TriStar.
After replacing the ICs, recovering the battery voltage, and verifying proper USB-C PD negotiation, the iPad returned to full 15V fast charging.
This is why proper diagnostics matter. The charging port is only one part of the circuit.
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Repair techs: how often do you see charging IC failures after port damage?
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Watch the full repair video here 👀:
Just posted a new iPad charging port repair video for techs dealing with base model iPads and Air/Pro variants with soldered dock flexes.
This iPad 7 was a classic life but no charge case. In the video I walk through:
- Confirming it’s a charging issue and not a no-power board fault
- Using a USB charging meter to verify current draw
- Verifying the port with the Mechanic Lightning tester
- Confirming dock flex failure with the Blue Tristar tester
- The soldering technique I use to remove and replace these dock flexes without ripping pads or damaging surrounding components
This design applies to multiple iPad generations, so the diagnostic and soldering process carries over to a lot of models.
Curious who still struggles with replacing these dock flexes without ripping pads?
🔥Full video breakdown of diagnosing and replacing a soldered iPad charging port:
Device came in water damaged after a previous repair attempt by another technician.
Board had scraped areas near the battery connector, unnecessary UV mask around multiple components, and incomplete inspection (main CPU shield was never removed).
Initial checks:
VPH power and VBAT lines not shorted
1V8 rail was hard shorted
Troubleshooting process:
Removed shields that were never taken off during the previous attempt
Removed charging IC due to questionable solder work
Removed a nearby IC that was still corroded underneath
Used DCPS + thermal camera to inject voltage and attempt to locate the short
Continued inspection and testing until no further progress could be made
At that point, proceeded with a full CPU swap:
CPU, RAM, UFS, and EEPROM transplanted to a known good board
Device booted and data was successfully recovered.
Full breakdown is up on YouTube. Link in the comments below
