VCC Board Repairs
Education • Science & Tech
The goal is to share solutions & techniques for microsoldering & data recovery repairs. I'll cover mostly iPhone & iPad motherboard repairs.
Interested? Want to learn more about the community?

Learn more first
I am pretty sure, I spent about 16 hours combined working on this Samsung S21 Plus

I am pretty sure, I spent about 16 hours combined working on this Samsung S21 Plus.

It came to me for Data Recovery.

It started bootlooping out of nowhere & customer needed all their pics & vids.

I went through my normal BDS workflow to solve the common bootlooping problem, but this one was different. Nothing I did changed the behavior.

UFS reballed, no change
UFS health was checked and was good, so we proceed to work on it
Then did RAM reball, but no change.
Then CPU & RAM Reball (they're stacked on top of each other) and same results.

At this point, customer approved a CPU Swap and oh boy, was that fun.

First step was to do the full CPU/RAM/UFS swap onto my working donor to see if it boots and it was no power. After some troubleshooting & replacing RAM, it finally booted...

Turns out, this phone had no pin code, but because Samsung started pairing a small IC to the phone (staring on S21 series), so it needed the "pin code IC" to be swapped as well.

The problem is that the pin code IC is inside the sandwich, so I figured i'd to the swap to see if i can get it boot first, then deal with the sandwich issues/pin code IC.

So even though this phone has no pin code, it will still not let me access the user data. It was forever in the "The phone is starting...." screen & nothing would load.

I can browse the settings, but couldn't really do much. None of the menu options were opening.

So this tells me, the pin code IC is needed, even if the phone has no pin code.

That's when I proceeded to split the sandwich on both boards, so I could transplant the small pin code IC

But that's when I ran into a problem...

After much troubleshooting, I got it booting and user data finally loaded! But it was restarting & overheating. I tried different methods to cool it but it would not change anything.

I reballed the sandwich again & it stopped over heating, but still restarting.

Tried reballing CPU, RAM, UFS, pin code IC and sandwich, but same results.

Finally, I decided to try another donor board..

And that did it! It finally booted up and stayed on fine. It didn't overheat either.

Looking back to all the steps I took, I definitely learned a lot. I also feel that maybe i could have resolved this in the beginning with just a new RAM chip.

I recently had another S21 that was no power & detected in "QDLoader mode" that ended up just being a bad RAM chip.

So although I spent a ton of time on this one, I have learned from this whole experience & I'm confident I'll be able to quickly solve future Android data jobs, thanks to the time I invested in this one.

So if you need your data recovered, send me a PM for a quote. B2B discounted pricing is available 🔥

Interested? Want to learn more about the community?

Learn more first
What else you may like…
Videos
Posts
Which Thermal Cam Do You Have?

If you have a Seek Thermal Cam, you're missing out if you don't have a VCC Seek Stand: https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/buy-seek-stand

Injured Gadgets just got these back in stock, so get them while you can!

It can take us a while to build these out sometimes, so they're sometimes out of stock for a while, but we're working towards always having inventory ready to build more as they sell out.

This stand makes using a thermal cam so easy. So much better than any other thermal solution on the market.

It allows you to get real close up (using my Macro Lens), and easily find where the short is coming from.

Plus it's hard free, so you can have your hands free to try to boot the device from DCPS, while having an image that is in focus & not moving around.

You can even record a video through the app, while you inject voltage into the short, so you can go back & see exactly which component was it that was heating up.

Save yourself lots of time by getting a Seek Cam, Stand & Macro Lens! ...

00:00:12
If you do consoles, you need this.

Anyone who is doing game console repairs, knows how many screws you need to remove to access the motherboard.

Especially the PS5, with the 5,000 screws or so.

If you don't already have an electric screwdriver, GET ONE ASAP.

🌟 Cordless Screwdriver with T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3E5duCj
🌟Extended T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3c4YJac

It's rechargeable through micro USB and allows you to easily swap the tips out. You can also fold it to be straight or L shape.

Let me know below if you are already using an electric screwdriver 👇👇

00:00:03
Shop Upgrade!

Got 2 new workbenches built out at my shop!

One is a larger & more robust shipping bench, where we do all the packing/shipping. So all the boxes, packing material like bubble wrap & packing paper, etc will be on there.

Then there's the actual workbench where I plan on hiring another associate to help us with handling all the shipping tasks & device intakes.

Was this a good investment??

post photo preview

My apologies... but it's been over 8 months since I posted a full length YouTube video.

Mainly because it's been super busy at the shop. Maybe it's the warmer weather that caused the demand for data recovery to go up.

But also, we had the pregnancy & then a baby to deal with

This video was recorded back in March but never got around to editing it either

So after back to back to back "no-fix" jobs, I figured I take a break from that stress & try to finish editing the video I started months ago.

So it's finally complete & available to watch (link in the comments)

It's a great video for people who want to learn how to diagnose board level faults, like a blown filter

And how to use your multimeter to find it.

Enjoy!

post photo preview
How to fix a USB flash drive - THE EASY WAY

Basically, all USB flash drive will have USB 2.0 pins. That's just 4 lines that you need for USB communication.

If it's a USB 3.0 drive, it will have those 4 pins + the extra 3.0 data pins

Get any USB A cable & splice it to find the 4 wires, Black, Red, Green, White. Then proceed with the next steps:

Find the 5V power rail, which typically is a thick trace or there's a duplicate pin. I found that by probing around & found the 2 pins that had continuity to each other

Ground is just any anchor

Then the tricky part was the 2 data lines, green & white

If you loose closely at the design, you'll find there's three pairs of 2 pads, which run together to resistors

Solder the green & white to those 2 pads & connect to PC.

If not detected at all, then you're on a USB 3.0 lines, so it's not that pair

If it's detected, but Device Manager gives an error, then you found it! But Green & white are reversed. So swap them & that should solve it

I've attached a diagram of how I wired them

Then...

Available on mobile and TV devices
google store google store app store app store
google store google store app tv store app tv store amazon store amazon store roku store roku store
Powered by Locals