So I just recently started getting iPhone 14 series for repair, mostly iPhone 14 Pro Max.
A lot of them have been for Baseband issues, like No Service/Searching issue.
But the problem I'm running into, a lot of these have the eSIM deactivated, since they have deactivated it on the phone I'm repairing & using it on another phone.
Since eSIM requires you to manually activate it with a carrier, there's no way for me to test for baseband issues.
I can't just pop in my tester SIM and see if it works.
I would have to activate an eSIM for it.
And yes, in many cases, as long as it says "SOS Only" or Modem FW is not missing or *#06# or the cellular menu is working, then it should be working... but not always.
I have a few jobs here that do seem to be working, but still doesn't pick up signal. So those require a little more troubleshooting.
But if on the 14's I need to activate an eSIM, that's not going to be easy. That means the customer has to remotely activate it for me, which is a hassle to convince them to do it. Then that also means they lose signal on their backup phone.
Does anyone have a solution to this?
Or anyone run into this before?
Would love to hear your thoughts 😅
If you have a Seek Thermal Cam, you're missing out if you don't have a VCC Seek Stand: https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/buy-seek-stand
Injured Gadgets just got these back in stock, so get them while you can!
It can take us a while to build these out sometimes, so they're sometimes out of stock for a while, but we're working towards always having inventory ready to build more as they sell out.
This stand makes using a thermal cam so easy. So much better than any other thermal solution on the market.
It allows you to get real close up (using my Macro Lens), and easily find where the short is coming from.
Plus it's hard free, so you can have your hands free to try to boot the device from DCPS, while having an image that is in focus & not moving around.
You can even record a video through the app, while you inject voltage into the short, so you can go back & see exactly which component was it that was heating up.
Save yourself lots of time by getting a Seek Cam, Stand & Macro Lens! ...
Anyone who is doing game console repairs, knows how many screws you need to remove to access the motherboard.
Especially the PS5, with the 5,000 screws or so.
If you don't already have an electric screwdriver, GET ONE ASAP.
🌟 Cordless Screwdriver with T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3E5duCj
🌟Extended T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3c4YJac
It's rechargeable through micro USB and allows you to easily swap the tips out. You can also fold it to be straight or L shape.
Let me know below if you are already using an electric screwdriver 👇👇
Have I got a please bro . Hahah
Thoughts on what is missing. Well it looks like a coil, but value guesses? It's an Omnex R160 wireless controller
This Pixel 6 came in for no power after another repair shop tried to repair the Display FPC connector (See pic1)
By the looks of it, they struggled badly trying to get this soldered on lol
So I found there were signs of overheating on the CPU and EERPOM chip, which was likely the fault. (See pic2)
I went through the full CPU Swap process, transplanting the CPU, RAM, UFS and EEPROM, only for the phone to bootloop & then give me the error in pic3
Unfortunately, it seems like something corrupted the UFS in the process, causing data not to be recoverable
This makes me sad, as an FPC replacement should be one of the easiest solder jobs to do, but this is what happens when inexperienced techs practice on customer's devices ðŸ˜
I totally get the urge to try it. You see videos... it looks easy.. you got some random hot air station & cheap iron combo from amazon
So why not?
Well this is why not.. you can totally kill the customer's device & data
If you want to learn how to solder, practice on ...
Had an S23 Ultra come in for a simple display connector issue… but it turned into a mess after someone tried to fix it themselves.
Glue all over the connector, uneven solder, no flux used, pads almost compromised… the whole thing was shifted and barely hanging on.
This is one of those repairs that looks easy on YouTube, but in reality takes a lot of control, the right temps, and proper prep.
Ended up doing a full FPC replacement and got it fully working again.
Curious how you guys approach these:
Do you pre-tin connectors or go straight install?
Hot air only or hybrid with iron touch-up?
What temps / airflow are you running for these Samsung FPCs?
Also… how often are you seeing DIY attempts make things worse lately?
Full video here:
