I've seen several posts about people with iPad Pros losing Face ID after screen repair or after just opening the iPad. In my experience, this happens when you damaged on the ALS sensors.
The ALS sensor itself is not tied to Face ID. But when it gets damaged, it somehow causes No Face ID.
A lot of people don't believe me that this is the solution, but you can literally just cut off the damaged sensor to bring back Face ID. I speak from personal expereince, as well as helping others solve it.
The better solution would be to desolder the ALS flex (yes, the whole flex) and replacing it, while keeping the original Flood Illuminator.
So that being said, I wrote a step by step article for the Repair Wiki, that you can reference, if you do run into this issue in the future: https://repair.wiki/w/IPad_Pro_12.9in_and_11in_No_Face_ID_After_Removing_The_Screen
Please bookmark it & share it with everyone. It's free! Louis Rossmann is paying for this free resource through his charity.
And if you want to help create more guides like this for the Repair Wiki, send me a PM. I can teach you the process & Louis is willing to pay you for quality repair guides!
If you have a Seek Thermal Cam, you're missing out if you don't have a VCC Seek Stand: https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/buy-seek-stand
Injured Gadgets just got these back in stock, so get them while you can!
It can take us a while to build these out sometimes, so they're sometimes out of stock for a while, but we're working towards always having inventory ready to build more as they sell out.
This stand makes using a thermal cam so easy. So much better than any other thermal solution on the market.
It allows you to get real close up (using my Macro Lens), and easily find where the short is coming from.
Plus it's hard free, so you can have your hands free to try to boot the device from DCPS, while having an image that is in focus & not moving around.
You can even record a video through the app, while you inject voltage into the short, so you can go back & see exactly which component was it that was heating up.
Save yourself lots of time by getting a Seek Cam, Stand & Macro Lens! ...
Anyone who is doing game console repairs, knows how many screws you need to remove to access the motherboard.
Especially the PS5, with the 5,000 screws or so.
If you don't already have an electric screwdriver, GET ONE ASAP.
🌟 Cordless Screwdriver with T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3E5duCj
🌟Extended T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3c4YJac
It's rechargeable through micro USB and allows you to easily swap the tips out. You can also fold it to be straight or L shape.
Let me know below if you are already using an electric screwdriver 👇👇
I got an iPhone 15 Pro mailed in from New Hampshire for Data Recovery. The front & back were smashed pretty bad.
Took the phone apart & found the bottom board was dented pretty bad
Separated the sandwich to just the top board only and found I had a short before prompt to boot. Tracked it down to a shorted C4222 on PP_VDD_SNS_BPIC
Removed the bad cap & I still had a short. Found the next short on C3499 on VDD MAIN
After that, no shorts before prompt to boot. So I thought that was it...
Well I was wrong. There was a 700mA short after prompt to boot.
Looking at the board under the thermal camera.. heat was coming from the NAND. Although the NAND looked in very good condition with no signs of physical damage. See first pic.
So I decided to remove the NAND to check further.
Without NAND, no short. It would just boot to DFU mode
Closer inspection of the NAND, I found there was a small crack running along the side wall.
When the NAND is cracked, it's GAME OVER. There's no way to ...
I got this Samsung S22 Ultra for Data Recovery. The display connector had some water damage that caused a short on the FPC
After removing the FPC, I found the short was within the layers.
I tried digging it out & it worked, but after placing the FPC back, the short came back.
These are really annoying lol
So I've offered to do a CPU Swap & waiting for the customer to reply 🙏
