This iPad 7 came in for Bootlooping/Error 9 after battery replacement.
Error 9 is really common after battery replacement. The theory is that a fully dead battery will kill the NAND when it's stuck bootlooping for a long time.
Although I can't say for sure that's why. But almost every Error 9 I see, has a history of a battery replacement right before it happened.
Error 9 requires a NAND replacement. In this case, the NAND was fully dead. I could not read it on my P14 Pro. (My JC P7 wasn't working at all either).
But I was able to at least get the original Serial Number when it was stuck in Recovery Mode.
I replaced the NAND with a 32GB NAND from an iPhone 7. I wrote a generic SYSCFG from an iPad 6 (2018) due to the P14 Pro software not having iPad 7 for some reasons. And I made sure to edit the junk SN it created & write the original SN, even though I didn't have the original WiFi/BT Address.
I then soldered the NAND onto the board, restored it & it was successfully booting, but No Touch & would not activate (due to wrong WiFi/BT Address).
I then used Purple Mode to "Query original factory code" which gave me the correct SN, WiFi, BT for this device within seconds. Maybe like 30 sec or so.
I also noticed in Purple Mode, the P14 Pro software had iPad 7 generic SYSCFG option. So I also clicked "Write standard bottom layer", then edit in the correct SN, Wifi/BT Address, also edited the Model from "CH/A" to "LL/A" for USA region. Wrote all that in and then restored the iPad one more time.
Then the iPad had touch & was able to activate. Unfortunately, I am currently waiting to hear from the customer for their iCloud info. But it should be fully functional now.
This was the first time ever I've seen a bad SYSCFG cause no touch. I was certain it was actually a CPU issue, as I had tested another known good digitizer & these iPad 7 are notorious for touch problems due to CPU.
I hope you found this helpful!
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If you have a Seek Thermal Cam, you're missing out if you don't have a VCC Seek Stand: https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/buy-seek-stand
Injured Gadgets just got these back in stock, so get them while you can!
It can take us a while to build these out sometimes, so they're sometimes out of stock for a while, but we're working towards always having inventory ready to build more as they sell out.
This stand makes using a thermal cam so easy. So much better than any other thermal solution on the market.
It allows you to get real close up (using my Macro Lens), and easily find where the short is coming from.
Plus it's hard free, so you can have your hands free to try to boot the device from DCPS, while having an image that is in focus & not moving around.
You can even record a video through the app, while you inject voltage into the short, so you can go back & see exactly which component was it that was heating up.
Save yourself lots of time by getting a Seek Cam, Stand & Macro Lens! ...
Anyone who is doing game console repairs, knows how many screws you need to remove to access the motherboard.
Especially the PS5, with the 5,000 screws or so.
If you don't already have an electric screwdriver, GET ONE ASAP.
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This Pixel 6 came in for no power after another repair shop tried to repair the Display FPC connector (See pic1)
By the looks of it, they struggled badly trying to get this soldered on lol
So I found there were signs of overheating on the CPU and EERPOM chip, which was likely the fault. (See pic2)
I went through the full CPU Swap process, transplanting the CPU, RAM, UFS and EEPROM, only for the phone to bootloop & then give me the error in pic3
Unfortunately, it seems like something corrupted the UFS in the process, causing data not to be recoverable
This makes me sad, as an FPC replacement should be one of the easiest solder jobs to do, but this is what happens when inexperienced techs practice on customer's devices 😭
I totally get the urge to try it. You see videos... it looks easy.. you got some random hot air station & cheap iron combo from amazon
So why not?
Well this is why not.. you can totally kill the customer's device & data
If you want to learn how to solder, practice on ...
Had an S23 Ultra come in for a simple display connector issue… but it turned into a mess after someone tried to fix it themselves.
Glue all over the connector, uneven solder, no flux used, pads almost compromised… the whole thing was shifted and barely hanging on.
This is one of those repairs that looks easy on YouTube, but in reality takes a lot of control, the right temps, and proper prep.
Ended up doing a full FPC replacement and got it fully working again.
Curious how you guys approach these:
Do you pre-tin connectors or go straight install?
Hot air only or hybrid with iron touch-up?
What temps / airflow are you running for these Samsung FPCs?
Also… how often are you seeing DIY attempts make things worse lately?
Full video here:
Had an iPhone 11 Pro Max come in for no power. Device was in excellent condition, no cracks, no signs of impact. Customer said it just randomly died.
Honestly, this is one of those classic faults I used to see all the time, and still enjoy because of how straightforward it is once you know what to look for.
First step, as always with no power, was checking current draw on the DC power supply.
Boot behavior:
Current was jumping all over the place. It would bounce from 0 → ~500mA → 0 → a few mA → back up again. Just constantly pulsing with no stable draw.
That kind of behavior usually points to a short on a NAND cap
So I threw it under the thermal cam (Seek Compact Pro). Timing is key here, because you only see heat when current is actually being drawn. When it drops to zero, there’s no heat signature.
Caught it at the right moment and found a hotspot on the board.
Under the microscope, the area showed a slightly darkened cap under the underfill, classic sign.
Ended up being a shorted PP3V0 cap ...
