This came in for No Power.
After checking the battery voltage, I noticed the battery was fully dead, hence, it wouldn't boot. It was reading 0V.
I manually charged it with my DCPS by injecting 4.2V/2A into it until i reached above 3.2V
Afterwards, I plugged it into the charger & waited for the phone to charge it. After a few minutes, I noticed it was giving me a red triangle and it would stop charging.
But it was enough to power on.
I then noticed it would right away shut down after getting a message about overheating.
Physically, the phone was getting hot. I checked with the thermal cam & found no obvious component, like a shorted cap or IC, causing the heat. I just saw general heat that was possibly coming from inside the sandwich.
After, I realized that if i didn't plug in the charger, the phone wouldn't overheat or restart. Only when plugging in the charger.
So that lead to me to figure out a way to externally charge the battery, while it was connected to the board. This way, the phone will stay on & allow me to pull data wirelessly via WiFi.
I decided to get the Sunshine External Battery charger, since that will properly regulate the voltage & not risk overcharging the battery if i were to manually do it.
I decided to use the + and - from the iPad battery connector board for the Sunshine charger. I used 2 wires to solder directly to the battery connector flex.
Then I plugged in the Sunshine charger to charge the battery, while the device was booted.
Then I connected the phone to my PC via DEX. This allowed me to connect the phone to my PC & control it. I then connected the phone to my NAS server, so I can copy all the files the customer needed.
This took several hours to copy but was successful.
There was a ton of troubleshooting time that I spent on this, but this is the general high level process i took to get the data.
I hope you enjoyed this one!
If you have a Seek Thermal Cam, you're missing out if you don't have a VCC Seek Stand: https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/buy-seek-stand
Injured Gadgets just got these back in stock, so get them while you can!
It can take us a while to build these out sometimes, so they're sometimes out of stock for a while, but we're working towards always having inventory ready to build more as they sell out.
This stand makes using a thermal cam so easy. So much better than any other thermal solution on the market.
It allows you to get real close up (using my Macro Lens), and easily find where the short is coming from.
Plus it's hard free, so you can have your hands free to try to boot the device from DCPS, while having an image that is in focus & not moving around.
You can even record a video through the app, while you inject voltage into the short, so you can go back & see exactly which component was it that was heating up.
Save yourself lots of time by getting a Seek Cam, Stand & Macro Lens! ...
Anyone who is doing game console repairs, knows how many screws you need to remove to access the motherboard.
Especially the PS5, with the 5,000 screws or so.
If you don't already have an electric screwdriver, GET ONE ASAP.
🌟 Cordless Screwdriver with T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3E5duCj
🌟Extended T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3c4YJac
It's rechargeable through micro USB and allows you to easily swap the tips out. You can also fold it to be straight or L shape.
Let me know below if you are already using an electric screwdriver 👇👇
Got 2 new workbenches built out at my shop!
One is a larger & more robust shipping bench, where we do all the packing/shipping. So all the boxes, packing material like bubble wrap & packing paper, etc will be on there.
Then there's the actual workbench where I plan on hiring another associate to help us with handling all the shipping tasks & device intakes.
Was this a good investment??
My apologies... but it's been over 8 months since I posted a full length YouTube video.
Mainly because it's been super busy at the shop. Maybe it's the warmer weather that caused the demand for data recovery to go up.
But also, we had the pregnancy & then a baby to deal with
This video was recorded back in March but never got around to editing it either
So after back to back to back "no-fix" jobs, I figured I take a break from that stress & try to finish editing the video I started months ago.
So it's finally complete & available to watch (link in the comments)
It's a great video for people who want to learn how to diagnose board level faults, like a blown filter
And how to use your multimeter to find it.
Enjoy!
Basically, all USB flash drive will have USB 2.0 pins. That's just 4 lines that you need for USB communication.
If it's a USB 3.0 drive, it will have those 4 pins + the extra 3.0 data pins
Get any USB A cable & splice it to find the 4 wires, Black, Red, Green, White. Then proceed with the next steps:
Find the 5V power rail, which typically is a thick trace or there's a duplicate pin. I found that by probing around & found the 2 pins that had continuity to each other
Ground is just any anchor
Then the tricky part was the 2 data lines, green & white
If you loose closely at the design, you'll find there's three pairs of 2 pads, which run together to resistors
Solder the green & white to those 2 pads & connect to PC.
If not detected at all, then you're on a USB 3.0 lines, so it's not that pair
If it's detected, but Device Manager gives an error, then you found it! But Green & white are reversed. So swap them & that should solve it
I've attached a diagram of how I wired them
Then...
