This came in for No Power.
After checking the battery voltage, I noticed the battery was fully dead, hence, it wouldn't boot. It was reading 0V.
I manually charged it with my DCPS by injecting 4.2V/2A into it until i reached above 3.2V
Afterwards, I plugged it into the charger & waited for the phone to charge it. After a few minutes, I noticed it was giving me a red triangle and it would stop charging.
But it was enough to power on.
I then noticed it would right away shut down after getting a message about overheating.
Physically, the phone was getting hot. I checked with the thermal cam & found no obvious component, like a shorted cap or IC, causing the heat. I just saw general heat that was possibly coming from inside the sandwich.
After, I realized that if i didn't plug in the charger, the phone wouldn't overheat or restart. Only when plugging in the charger.
So that lead to me to figure out a way to externally charge the battery, while it was connected to the board. This way, the phone will stay on & allow me to pull data wirelessly via WiFi.
I decided to get the Sunshine External Battery charger, since that will properly regulate the voltage & not risk overcharging the battery if i were to manually do it.
I decided to use the + and - from the iPad battery connector board for the Sunshine charger. I used 2 wires to solder directly to the battery connector flex.
Then I plugged in the Sunshine charger to charge the battery, while the device was booted.
Then I connected the phone to my PC via DEX. This allowed me to connect the phone to my PC & control it. I then connected the phone to my NAS server, so I can copy all the files the customer needed.
This took several hours to copy but was successful.
There was a ton of troubleshooting time that I spent on this, but this is the general high level process i took to get the data.
I hope you enjoyed this one!
If you have a Seek Thermal Cam, you're missing out if you don't have a VCC Seek Stand: https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/buy-seek-stand
Injured Gadgets just got these back in stock, so get them while you can!
It can take us a while to build these out sometimes, so they're sometimes out of stock for a while, but we're working towards always having inventory ready to build more as they sell out.
This stand makes using a thermal cam so easy. So much better than any other thermal solution on the market.
It allows you to get real close up (using my Macro Lens), and easily find where the short is coming from.
Plus it's hard free, so you can have your hands free to try to boot the device from DCPS, while having an image that is in focus & not moving around.
You can even record a video through the app, while you inject voltage into the short, so you can go back & see exactly which component was it that was heating up.
Save yourself lots of time by getting a Seek Cam, Stand & Macro Lens! ...
Anyone who is doing game console repairs, knows how many screws you need to remove to access the motherboard.
Especially the PS5, with the 5,000 screws or so.
If you don't already have an electric screwdriver, GET ONE ASAP.
🌟 Cordless Screwdriver with T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3E5duCj
🌟Extended T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3c4YJac
It's rechargeable through micro USB and allows you to easily swap the tips out. You can also fold it to be straight or L shape.
Let me know below if you are already using an electric screwdriver 👇👇
This 15 Pro came in for data recovery. It came in smashed badly.
I split the sandwich & tested in the jig with a known good bottom board & all known good parts
But yet, it still restarted.
That means it had a board level issue causing it.
I found the panic log said the sensor array code was 0x80000
This was not a previously documented error code, so I had nothing to go by
Based on the backstory, I started checking everything on the board. Diode mode all the common connectors. But nothing.
Then I remembers the 14 Pros require the Gyro to work. Sure enough, rotation was not working
I found the Gyro IC & noticed it was loose
I pulled & it had some ripped pads.
Rebuilt the pads, placed the IC back & it worked! I backed up the data.
Since the Repair Wiki is not longer updateable, I will be posting the new panic logs I find on my Panic Log Cheat Sheet, only available to active members
You can access my Panic Log Cheat Sheet here:
https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/cheat-sheet
...
Crazy recovery job I wrapped up this week on an iPhone 14 Pro Max that was mailed in all the way from Nebraska.
Customer told me the phone had been run over multiple times, and honestly, after opening it up, I thought this was going to end up being a no-fix. The phone was absolutely destroyed. The housing was twisted, the board was severely bent, and the damage near the NAND had me expecting the worst.
First thing I did was remove the board and inspect everything under the microscope. The bend near the NAND and CPU area was pretty extreme, which is usually a very bad sign on these newer iPhones. In many cases, once the board bends this badly, the CPU or NAND can crack internally and the data is gone for good.
Because the board was bent so severely, I couldn’t safely use my normal board heater setup to separate the sandwich board. I had to carefully use hot air instead and take my time through the entire process. Definitely one of those jobs where one wrong move could destroy the last chance at ...
