I had this iPhone 12 Pro Max come in for Data Recovery.
It had corrosion near the power button connector, but it actually wasn't that bad.
The device booted, but it was in recovery mode. I would exit recovery mode with 3u tools but would still go back to recovery mode.
This made no sense. Why would water damage do this?
So I flashed an update & it went through successfully, 100% with no errors, but once again, it booted back to recovery mode.
This led me to think...
There was water damage near power button connector
12PM will go into recovery mode if the power button connector is pressed down all the time while booting
Maybe it has to do with the power button connector.
So I booted up the phone & measured the power button pin's voltage. It was like 0.6V.
If you know how power button lines work, they actually have a HIGH signal (1.8V in this case), and when that signal goes LOW (0V), that's how the device is told electrically, to process the power button being pressed function.
Therefore, if the voltage at the connector is stuck at 0.6V (essentially NOT 1.8V as it should be), that means the phone thinks the power button connector is being pressed down.
But it's not pressed down by anyone. it's shorted or failed where it can't be in a state where it has a HIGH signal.
So now it all made sense. The power button line (IO_BUTTON_SIDE_L_1V8) was bad.
Checking the schematics & ZXW, you can see that line basically is generated by the PMIC.
At this point, I have 2 options:
1. I replace PMIC & hope that solves it - it probably would. But that required splitting the sandwich & doing PMIC, which is super risky
2. Or... I feed it 1.8V from somewhere else & hope the voltage from the other 1.8v power source doesn't get pulled down by the short in the PMIC.
The first thing I tried was, jumping PP1V8_ALWAYS to IO_BUTTON_SIDE_L_1V8
Buuuut, then the device wouldn't boot anymore. It would hang at 20mA after prompt to boot.
At this point, I asked some friends about this issue. Sure enough, Aaron Harrington said he had a video on this exact issue, which i'll link in the comments.
Basically, I needed to check the volume button lines as well, which sure enough, were also in a LOW state.
In his video, he jumped PP1V8_S2, which is in that same general area, to the Vol up, Vol down.
Then he jumped PP1v8_Always to power button line.
Not sure why it worked for him, but not me.
So I just decided to jump all 3 lines to PP1V8_S2
And BOOM, it booted! And I got the data! 🙌
So let me know.. what did you learn from this post? Let me know down below 🤔
If you have a Seek Thermal Cam, you're missing out if you don't have a VCC Seek Stand: https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/buy-seek-stand
Injured Gadgets just got these back in stock, so get them while you can!
It can take us a while to build these out sometimes, so they're sometimes out of stock for a while, but we're working towards always having inventory ready to build more as they sell out.
This stand makes using a thermal cam so easy. So much better than any other thermal solution on the market.
It allows you to get real close up (using my Macro Lens), and easily find where the short is coming from.
Plus it's hard free, so you can have your hands free to try to boot the device from DCPS, while having an image that is in focus & not moving around.
You can even record a video through the app, while you inject voltage into the short, so you can go back & see exactly which component was it that was heating up.
Save yourself lots of time by getting a Seek Cam, Stand & Macro Lens! ...
Anyone who is doing game console repairs, knows how many screws you need to remove to access the motherboard.
Especially the PS5, with the 5,000 screws or so.
If you don't already have an electric screwdriver, GET ONE ASAP.
🌟 Cordless Screwdriver with T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3E5duCj
🌟Extended T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3c4YJac
It's rechargeable through micro USB and allows you to easily swap the tips out. You can also fold it to be straight or L shape.
Let me know below if you are already using an electric screwdriver 👇👇
Have I got a please bro . Hahah
Thoughts on what is missing. Well it looks like a coil, but value guesses? It's an Omnex R160 wireless controller
This Pixel 6 came in for no power after another repair shop tried to repair the Display FPC connector (See pic1)
By the looks of it, they struggled badly trying to get this soldered on lol
So I found there were signs of overheating on the CPU and EERPOM chip, which was likely the fault. (See pic2)
I went through the full CPU Swap process, transplanting the CPU, RAM, UFS and EEPROM, only for the phone to bootloop & then give me the error in pic3
Unfortunately, it seems like something corrupted the UFS in the process, causing data not to be recoverable
This makes me sad, as an FPC replacement should be one of the easiest solder jobs to do, but this is what happens when inexperienced techs practice on customer's devices ðŸ˜
I totally get the urge to try it. You see videos... it looks easy.. you got some random hot air station & cheap iron combo from amazon
So why not?
Well this is why not.. you can totally kill the customer's device & data
If you want to learn how to solder, practice on ...
Had an S23 Ultra come in for a simple display connector issue… but it turned into a mess after someone tried to fix it themselves.
Glue all over the connector, uneven solder, no flux used, pads almost compromised… the whole thing was shifted and barely hanging on.
This is one of those repairs that looks easy on YouTube, but in reality takes a lot of control, the right temps, and proper prep.
Ended up doing a full FPC replacement and got it fully working again.
Curious how you guys approach these:
Do you pre-tin connectors or go straight install?
Hot air only or hybrid with iron touch-up?
What temps / airflow are you running for these Samsung FPCs?
Also… how often are you seeing DIY attempts make things worse lately?
Full video here:
