Newer Samsung Galaxy phones have a "temp sensor", which is really a thermistor, on the back wireless coil/NFC.
If you don't have this plugged in, the phone will not charge & give a ⚠ temp warning symbol.
In this case, I had no extra wireless coil to test with.
Looking through the part, I spotted the component. And if you look closely, you can kind of see where the traces from it run to.
So using continuity mode, I checked for continuity from the FPC to the thermistor. I found 1 pin (red in the pic), but the other side would not get any continuity from any pin.
Since the traces are mostly visible, I scratched off the top layer to expose the copper trace & started probing around.
Take a look at the 5th pic. I first did blue to blue, then red to red, then orange to orange. When I got to green to green, I noticed I would sometimes get continuity when pressing down & the cable moving around.
This told me there must be a broken line somewhere between the 2 dots.
I ran a jumper from where the broken line was detected, green dot to green dot. From there, I was able to get continuity from the thermistor to the FPC from both sides of the component.
Plug it back into the phone & the phone started charging properly!
Sure, I could have just bought a new wireless coil & that would have solved it, but where's the fun in that? lol
Make sure to like this post if you found this helpful!
If you have a Seek Thermal Cam, you're missing out if you don't have a VCC Seek Stand: https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/buy-seek-stand
Injured Gadgets just got these back in stock, so get them while you can!
It can take us a while to build these out sometimes, so they're sometimes out of stock for a while, but we're working towards always having inventory ready to build more as they sell out.
This stand makes using a thermal cam so easy. So much better than any other thermal solution on the market.
It allows you to get real close up (using my Macro Lens), and easily find where the short is coming from.
Plus it's hard free, so you can have your hands free to try to boot the device from DCPS, while having an image that is in focus & not moving around.
You can even record a video through the app, while you inject voltage into the short, so you can go back & see exactly which component was it that was heating up.
Save yourself lots of time by getting a Seek Cam, Stand & Macro Lens! ...
Anyone who is doing game console repairs, knows how many screws you need to remove to access the motherboard.
Especially the PS5, with the 5,000 screws or so.
If you don't already have an electric screwdriver, GET ONE ASAP.
🌟 Cordless Screwdriver with T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3E5duCj
🌟Extended T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3c4YJac
It's rechargeable through micro USB and allows you to easily swap the tips out. You can also fold it to be straight or L shape.
Let me know below if you are already using an electric screwdriver 👇👇
This 15 Pro came in for data recovery. It came in smashed badly.
I split the sandwich & tested in the jig with a known good bottom board & all known good parts
But yet, it still restarted.
That means it had a board level issue causing it.
I found the panic log said the sensor array code was 0x80000
This was not a previously documented error code, so I had nothing to go by
Based on the backstory, I started checking everything on the board. Diode mode all the common connectors. But nothing.
Then I remembers the 14 Pros require the Gyro to work. Sure enough, rotation was not working
I found the Gyro IC & noticed it was loose
I pulled & it had some ripped pads.
Rebuilt the pads, placed the IC back & it worked! I backed up the data.
Since the Repair Wiki is not longer updateable, I will be posting the new panic logs I find on my Panic Log Cheat Sheet, only available to active members
You can access my Panic Log Cheat Sheet here:
https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/cheat-sheet
...
Crazy recovery job I wrapped up this week on an iPhone 14 Pro Max that was mailed in all the way from Nebraska.
Customer told me the phone had been run over multiple times, and honestly, after opening it up, I thought this was going to end up being a no-fix. The phone was absolutely destroyed. The housing was twisted, the board was severely bent, and the damage near the NAND had me expecting the worst.
First thing I did was remove the board and inspect everything under the microscope. The bend near the NAND and CPU area was pretty extreme, which is usually a very bad sign on these newer iPhones. In many cases, once the board bends this badly, the CPU or NAND can crack internally and the data is gone for good.
Because the board was bent so severely, I couldn’t safely use my normal board heater setup to separate the sandwich board. I had to carefully use hot air instead and take my time through the entire process. Definitely one of those jobs where one wrong move could destroy the last chance at ...
