It's easy to assume a device is having a board issue when the device does not power on.
But you'd be surprised how many phones I've recovered data from, by just unplugging everything, except the bare minimum, Screen, Battery & Charging Port.
Ideally, you want to take out the whole board & test with KNOWN GOOD parts. But you don't always have those.
In this case, it was a Galaxy Fold that came in for Data Recovery after it spontaneously died on the customer.
I've never even held one of these, let alone opened one.
I followed along a JerryRigEverything video on opening it and just start unplugging everything.
Just following where the flexes go, I kind of figured out what most of them do. Like one was for the foldable screen, there were 2 that connect the 2 halves together, etc.
Just kept trying different combinations of cables unplugged until I noticed the device started charging on my USB C meter.
I let it sit for a good 10-15 min & saw it was charging at 9V/1.5A, but no image.
Start plugging in the flexes that appeared to be the screen & I got image! The device was showing the charging logo on the screen.
Booted the phone up & got the data.
Afterwards, I fully reassembled & plugged everything in & it kept working. So who knows what exactly caused it to die & not want to power on.
But the key here is, don't just automatically jump to soldering, if you haven't ruled out parts issues
You'll end up adding more variables that can lead you to a more difficult repair.
Let me know down below if you found this helpful!
If you have a Seek Thermal Cam, you're missing out if you don't have a VCC Seek Stand: https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/buy-seek-stand
Injured Gadgets just got these back in stock, so get them while you can!
It can take us a while to build these out sometimes, so they're sometimes out of stock for a while, but we're working towards always having inventory ready to build more as they sell out.
This stand makes using a thermal cam so easy. So much better than any other thermal solution on the market.
It allows you to get real close up (using my Macro Lens), and easily find where the short is coming from.
Plus it's hard free, so you can have your hands free to try to boot the device from DCPS, while having an image that is in focus & not moving around.
You can even record a video through the app, while you inject voltage into the short, so you can go back & see exactly which component was it that was heating up.
Save yourself lots of time by getting a Seek Cam, Stand & Macro Lens! ...
Anyone who is doing game console repairs, knows how many screws you need to remove to access the motherboard.
Especially the PS5, with the 5,000 screws or so.
If you don't already have an electric screwdriver, GET ONE ASAP.
🌟 Cordless Screwdriver with T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3E5duCj
🌟Extended T9 Bit: https://amzn.to/3c4YJac
It's rechargeable through micro USB and allows you to easily swap the tips out. You can also fold it to be straight or L shape.
Let me know below if you are already using an electric screwdriver 👇👇
One of the perks of being an active member is access to our private Facebook Messenger group chat.
We’ve got a solid group of techs in there discussing panic logs, 3 minute restarts, board level repairs, troubleshooting, tools, weird cases, and sharing fixes.
It’s not a training course, just a chill place for techs to help each other out and talk shop.
If you want in, comment your Facebook profile link below or DM me on Facebook and I’ll add you.
This 15 Pro came in for data recovery. It came in smashed badly.
I split the sandwich & tested in the jig with a known good bottom board & all known good parts
But yet, it still restarted.
That means it had a board level issue causing it.
I found the panic log said the sensor array code was 0x80000
This was not a previously documented error code, so I had nothing to go by
Based on the backstory, I started checking everything on the board. Diode mode all the common connectors. But nothing.
Then I remembers the 14 Pros require the Gyro to work. Sure enough, rotation was not working
I found the Gyro IC & noticed it was loose
I pulled & it had some ripped pads.
Rebuilt the pads, placed the IC back & it worked! I backed up the data.
Since the Repair Wiki is not longer updateable, I will be posting the new panic logs I find on my Panic Log Cheat Sheet, only available to active members
You can access my Panic Log Cheat Sheet here:
https://www.vccboardrepairs.com/cheat-sheet
...
Crazy recovery job I wrapped up this week on an iPhone 14 Pro Max that was mailed in all the way from Nebraska.
Customer told me the phone had been run over multiple times, and honestly, after opening it up, I thought this was going to end up being a no-fix. The phone was absolutely destroyed. The housing was twisted, the board was severely bent, and the damage near the NAND had me expecting the worst.
First thing I did was remove the board and inspect everything under the microscope. The bend near the NAND and CPU area was pretty extreme, which is usually a very bad sign on these newer iPhones. In many cases, once the board bends this badly, the CPU or NAND can crack internally and the data is gone for good.
Because the board was bent so severely, I couldn’t safely use my normal board heater setup to separate the sandwich board. I had to carefully use hot air instead and take my time through the entire process. Definitely one of those jobs where one wrong move could destroy the last chance at ...
